The ultimate Paris guide
A thoughtful travel guide to my favorite city
Some people love Paris, and some people hate it. I happen to be one of those people who loves Paris so much they can’t shut up about it. I hope this guide can get you to love this city as much as I do.
Although I’ve posted quite a bit about Paris on my other platforms (my Instagram and Tiktok), consider this my ultimate, exhaustive list you can save for your next trip. I do want to caveat that this guide is better suited for a second trip as I am not including the more basic need-to-do tourism.
Where to Eat
Bakeries
First things first: bakeries. As you may know by now, my mother is an exquisite baker. And I am an exquisite baked goods eater! I’ve written a full croissant guide on my page, but let’s cover ground on Parisian bakeries overall. First, I recommend Du Pain & des Idées, a traditional bakery with a beautiful interior serving fantastic pistachio escargots (spiraled flakey pastry resembling a snail).
As I’ve mentioned before, La Maison d’Isabelle is, in my opinion, the best croissant in the city. It is salty, and flakey and just perfect. They have also duly won the best croissant award in past years.
Poilâne has great bread. I would skip their pastries (pain au chocolat or croissant) as their strong suit is their bread famously marked with a “P.”
Restaurants
Dining in Paris is truly spectacular. Here is a select list with great ambiance and even better food.
Chez l’Ami Louis is a tiny gem, with old-school waiters and limited seating. Arrive early in the evening, put your name down, and grab a drink at a terrace nearby. Order the thinly cut fries, the steak (I made the mistake of ordering it medium rare, which in French means very rare), and the baba au rhum, which is topped with fresh whipped cream and drowned in grade-A rhum. Finish the meal with some Chartreuse, and don’t forget to bring good company.
If you’re feeling adventurous, head to Clown Bar, where you will find a limited and unique menu of seasonal delicacies. This provocative and inventive restaurant was previously a circus and is still adorned with clown references. I ate veal brain here because this is the kind of place where you think to yourself why not try veal brain?!
Le Petit Lutetia can be a little sceny, but it’s a quintessential spot for a lively, upscale brasserie-style meal. The bread and butter (with radish!) game here is unmatched, and the dessert doesn’t disappoint.
Markets
As Ina Garten says, the most wonderful thing to do in Paris is walk around and pick up fresh foods from all of the markets around the city.
If I could spend hours checking out all of the international and French specialty foods at La Grande Épicerie, I would. Get Beurre de Bordier, the absolute best of French butter, and ask for their travel-friendly packaging to smuggle it back home with you.
While window-shopping in the Marais, stop into Marché des Enfants Rouges which is both a spectacular market but also has fabulous food stands serving fresh food from various cuisines.
The high-end cheese shop Barthélemy feels like a walk-in refrigerator but also a cheese museum. I recommend asking the staff about the cheeses and making a selection for a picnic.
Sweets
I am in the small minority of people who actually prefer French ice cream over Italian gelato. I may not be able to convince you of that, but just stop by Le Bac à Glaces and let me know how you feel later. This neighborhood spot just outside of La Grande Epicerie is serving traditional French ice cream in all of the loved French flavors. My personal favorite is the pear ice cream and the chocolate sorbet combo.
People watching and dark chocolate cake: heaven, if you ask me. Park your tired-of-shopping-in-Saint-Germain buttocks at Bar de la Croix Rouge, order a loose-leaf mint tea and their famous chocolate cake and enjoy the scene.
Where to Grab a Drink
Aperitif
To start the evening off, sit at the bar at Le Mary Celeste for a casual drink. I want to try the food here next, it looks delicious.
Le Flore en l'île is a more touristy option for an aperitivo but is a total scene in the summer, with lovely views of the seine.
Nightcap
End the evening with a nightcap at Sinner or Costes. Both are more upscale options that will make you feel like you went out out.
Dancing
But, if you actually want to go out dancing, I recommend Serpent à Plume or Silencio. Both clubs are moody and small and mostly play house or electronic music.
What to See
I was lucky enough to study Art History in Paris for a semester; these are my absolute must-sees.
Saint-Germain-des-Prés abbey is one of the very few churches that was re-painted with its original colors which is so awesome to an art history nerd like me. Another breathtaking church is la Sainte-Chappelle, with stained glass never fails to bring me to tears.
My favorite museums include Musée Picasso and Musée de l'Orangerie. It’s also quite interesting to walk around Père Lachaise Cemetery, a slightly spooky massive park and cemetery where many French and international celebrities and artists rest.
Where to Shop
Lastly, let’s do a rapid-fire shopping guide.
Louise Carmen has beautiful personalizable leather notebooks. Simone Pérèle is excellent for quintessential French lingerie. Officine Universelle Buly 1803 is a centuries-old pharmacy / perfume store worth the visit. Mélodies Graphiques is simply the best stationary store I’ve ever been to. Boutique Sophie d’Annunzia is the place to get your velvet slippers (duh!) Ofr. Librarie, galerie is the ultimate cool art book store. Carel for very French patent mary janes. City Pharma is a go-to French pharmacy but honestly the city is full of great ones options.
Just writing this guide makes me want to go back to Paris again! Let me know what I missed and if you go to any of my spots.
xx,
Vale
Thank you for supporting Diary of a Flâneuse. If you want more from me (travel guides, food recs and fashion), here is where you can find me: IG, Tiktok
I will be moving to Paris this fall and I will definitely be trying these recs! 😌☝️
Going to Paris this summer! Needed this - thank you!!